One of the world's largest camel fairs happens every November in the Rajasthan desert: 50,000 camels, a full moon over the Brahma ghats, and an atmosphere that is equal parts Hindu pilgrimage and extraordinary spectacle.
Pushkar is a small town of around 15,000 people built around the Pushkar Lake in the Rajasthan desert, 11 kilometres northwest of Ajmer. The lake is considered one of the most sacred in Hinduism: the 52 ghats along its shore are pilgrimage sites, and the only Brahma temple in the world is here. For 51 weeks a year it is a quiet desert pilgrimage town with a developed backpacker circuit. For one week in November it becomes the site of the Pushkar Mela.
The fair is held on the sand dunes north of town and at the lake ghats simultaneously. The camel and livestock trading, which is the original purpose of the fair, happens in the mornings: 50,000 camels and 200,000 people at peak, with livestock auctions, camel decoration competitions, and camel racing on the sand. The religious dimension runs simultaneously: pilgrims bathe at the ghats to mark Kartik Purnima, the full moon considered particularly auspicious for ritual bathing. The evening atmosphere combines folk music, fire poi performers, and the particular quality of Rajasthani desert nights. It is one of the genuinely irreplaceable experiences in travel.
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Day-by-day breakdown
Pushkar's 52 ghats ring the lake. The main ghat, Brahma Ghat, is directly in front of the Brahma temple at the north shore. Shoes must be removed before approaching any ghat. Priests at the ghats offer puja ceremonies to visitors; it is acceptable to decline. Walk the full circuit of the lake (4 kilometres) on the ghat path before the crowds build. The Brahma Temple (open to non-Hindus) is free and has a 2,000-year history.
The fair grounds are a 20-minute walk north of town across the sand. The camel auction and livestock trading runs from 7am to noon. The best time to be at the grounds is at dawn: the combination of morning light, camels decorated with mirrors and embroidery, and the scale of the gathering is unlike anything else. Camel rides are available from the grounds (300–500 INR for 15 minutes). The craft market at the fair has Rajasthani textiles, silver jewellery, and leather goods at fair prices.
Kartik Purnima, the full moon, is the culmination of the fair. Pilgrims bathe in the lake at dawn on this day; evening ceremonies at the ghats involve floating lamps on the water. The fair grounds run folk music and performances until midnight. Baba Dassji Haveli and the rooftop restaurants on the main bazaar street have views across the lit lake. Most restaurants stop serving by 10pm; the streets stay active until midnight.
Pushkar is surrounded by rose gardens that supply rose petals for temple offerings. The gardens are open to visitors in the early morning (free). Ajmer, 11 kilometres southeast, has the Dargah Sharif — the tomb of Sufi saint Moinuddin Chishti, one of the most visited shrines in South Asia. Buses between Pushkar and Ajmer run continuously (30 minutes, 30 INR). Ajmer Junction is the main railhead for onward travel.